Brisbane Whisky Expo 2012

The bagpiper makes it an authentic event.

It's not often, as a Brisbanite, that one gets the opportunity to partake in "cultured" events such as these. Let's face it - there are mitigating factors aplenty as to why such phenomena should not be witnessed in this part of the world, to name but a few: the weather (steamy sub-tropical summer's day - check!), population (well behind Melbourne and Sydney, on several counts), clash of cultures (XXXX and Bundy Rum, anyone?) - and I could go on.

Fortunately, what Brisbane does have in its favour, is Spiros Bottle Shop - a new-ish, independent concern seemingly run by passionate folk - well, at least their malt selection looks quite decent on their web site (I must confess I am yet to set foot in a Spiros shop, but will no doubt make my way there very soon, to perhaps "relieve" them of a bottle or three of malts hitherto unseen in these parts).

I must at this point mention Graham from the excellent Odd Whisky Company (Adelaide) - without whom's mailing list I would not have known this event was on, so thank you!

Spiros held a Whisky Expo last year in Brisbane as well, which I gather was a great success. I don't recall which particular Act of God prevented me from attending, but with the benefit of hindsight and using this year's expo as my only yardstick, I definitely regret not having made it!

So then, onto this year's expo held on the 29th February (a leap day, no less).  I didn't set my expectations too high - a "whisky expo"? In Brisbane? Surely not - a run-of-the-mill, brand-ambassador hosted tasting, perhaps. Or maybe an enterprising bottle shop owner attempting to grow clientele by introducing folk to some nice, agreeable, cost-effective Scotch whiskies (and perhaps a single malt or two - would you not agree that this Glenlivet is so much nicer than the Johnnie Walker??). But I digress - my cynicism dissipates the closer I get to my destination as I figure, what the heck, regardless, I'll be spending a night drinking whisky, how good is this?

I arrive 15 minutes early at the Transcontinental Hotel after a brisk walk from the central bus station, and after redeeming my $50 (cash, not credit) for my expo ticket, I go for a quick wander up-stairs where the expo folk are setting up (apparently I'm not supposed to be up there until 6pm - oops);  I'm utterly blown away by the magnitude and "properness" of this affair - no ordinary Brisbane whisky tasting, I can assure you! This is an expo after all.

First impressions count, of course, and a reception table boasting dozens upon dozens of pristine Glencairn glasses greets me (one per customer, free for the night), whisky banners (Old Pulteney and An Cnoc here, GlenDronach there, Sullivan's Cove!) and stalls ringing the entire outer wall of the square glass-centered atrium in which I find myself, all contributing to a strange but joyful sense of "kid in a candy store" that I (as a somewhat jaded, almost-30 year old) have rarely had the pleasure of experiencing in adulthood.

I perform a quick "once round" of the stalls (noticing a particularly crowded Glenfarclas table as I pass) and find Graham and Shane in the corner with a no-fuss setup, letting the whiskies speak for themselves.

On display, a varietal bounty of independent and distillery bottlings of Springbanks, Hazelburns, Longrows, Caol Ila's, Glengoynes and Blackadders (not limited to Scotch whisky either - a bottle of Cadenhead's Gin is a notable inclusion).

Nice spread! By The Odd Whisky Company (Adelaide) and Springbank.

Suntory ambassador - friendly bloke. Despite the blurry face.

After a quick hello and chat, and a promise that I'll be back later to sample the "heavier" stuff after I've had my fill of the lighter styles present - no sooner do I take three steps and I find myself sampling an Auchentoshan "Three Wood" at the Suntory table (would I like to try some? Why yes! Thank you sir)!

Superb stuff, the Three Wood is a real charmer; so easy to drink and a classic fusion of sherry and bourbon styles for a very well rounded dram. I didn't try the Classic or the 12 year old however, as I spotted the Yamazaki 12 and couldn't resist. Not my first Japanese whisky experience however (that was the Hibiki 17 year old) but I can't call myself a whisky enthusiast without having tried the ubiquitous Yamazaki.

I nosed some fantastic plum and bananas, fragrant, floral notes. The palette delivered less than the nose promised, some banana definitely present though, a bit thin.  Overall though, a more than pleasant dram that I will probably end up buying a bottle of soon.

Opening Ceremony.

Before I could fully appreciate my dram however, a blaring of bagpipes sounds and an assembly of wisened whisky folk (with good representation from the Queensland Malt Whisky Society) take centre stage where the expo is officially "rung in", with introductions of special guests and thanks to all involved for backing up for another year of this wonderful expo. The ensemble concludes with an excerpt reading of Burns' poem "Scotch Drink" followed by raised glasses and a hearty cry of "Slainte!" from all 'round (yours truly included). Fantastic.


Okay so what's next.. oh yes! More whisky was tasted. The "business" end of the evening. I've got about 2.5 hours until the show's over. I've added a few rough tasting notes and "off the cuff" scores below (where recorded and/or possible - after 8pm my tongue and mind begin to get a little "hazy" and my note taking suffers for it, particularly as I work my way up to a peaty crescendo).

An Cnoc 12 was one of the "gems" of the night.

Auchentoshan Three Wood: N: predominantly sherry, sweet T: "more-ish", opens up to toffee with a drop of water. Could drink this all day. Excellent. 85-90 points



Yamazaki 12 years: N: plums! honey, banana T: grainy, hint of peat, sour, bitter, a little metallic twang. Pleasant. 75-80 points




Deanston 12 years (organic, no added caramel): Pale straw in colour. N: Cereal, hay, floral, nutty T: Herbal, vegetal and earthy, some citrus. Intriguing. Farm yard, but without the unpleasantness, haven't really experienced anything similar to date, although shares some farmy notes with the Tamdhu NAS. An ideal appetiser or aperitif. Well done Deanston! 80-85 points

An Cnoc 12 years: N: floral, lots of fruit - passionfruit, kiwi fruit, medium sweet white grape - this is Sauvignon Blanc whisky T: clean vibrant malt, citrus, white fruits, well balanced. Definitely Sauv Blanc. A kiwi Sauv Blanc at that. Amazingly fruity - would make an excellent summer dram, methinks. I will be buying a bottle of this. 85-90 points


An Cnoc 16 years: N: sweeter and less vibrant than the 12 but along the same fruity lines, some added custard cream. With water, becomes a little herbaceous, leafier and aromatic. Extra years have refined this. T: "Chardonnay" to the 12 year old's Sauv Blanc - dry, light, fruity. Finish: Spicy, citrus, long and warming. I prefer the 12 year old but this is also a fine dram. 80-85 points


(an hour and forty minutes in! Less talking, more sampling!)

GlenDronach impressed.

GlenDronach 12 years - Original: N: Very reminiscent of Dalmore 12 with its cereally, yeasty, creamy nose, but cleaner. T: Sherry prominent, great balance and mouth feel. Finish: Oak spice, long, warming and hearty. [no score recorded]


GlenDronach 15 years - Revival: N: Toffee, becomes fragrant with water. Elegant. T: Mouth coating, bitter chocolate, refined and greatly integrated. More-ish. [no score recorded]


GlenDronach 18 years - Allardice: N: Christmas cake, dark sugar, demarara - what a treat! T: Fantastic mouth feel, chewy, dances on the tongue, rich, exquisite. Wow. I'm no expert, but some good sherry casks here I think. Is this better than the Glengoyne 21 year old, and at 2/3 the price?! Quite possibly. This is going straight to my wish list. 90-95 points


Glenfarclas 15 years: [No notes recorded]. 85 points


Glenfarclas 30 years: Fantastic. Regal oak. Nice! [No score recorded]

Glenfarclas wowed with 30 and 40 year old to taste!

So my notes clearly don't do it justice at all, my apologies. I feel I should explain myself and add that the truly fantastic 30 year old led me into a great conversation with Jim of Glenfarclas about the quality of sherry wood selection employed at Glenfarclas, and how they manage to avoid the sulphur taint issue that seems to affect other distillers - apparently they receive "fresh" sherry casks and toast them immediately, hence no use of sulphur agents.

He had two pieces of American oak and a piece of Sherry oak wood and explained the difference between "charring" and "toasting". An important distinction!

We talked about the chemistry of whisky maturation and scientific studies into characterisation of the compounds present in the whisky - Jim wanted to be sure that carcinogenic compounds from charred wood weren't entering the whisky (and apparently it's perfectly fine!). Glenfarclas is a family operation, I can see where their passion and dedication to the craft comes from - it really shows in their product.


Glenfarclas 40 years: Very robust. Special. Two whiskies older than I am, tasted in succession - humbling! [no score recorded]


(That's all I had on that one, unfortunately. Probably was in shock. Okay well I've stopped scoring now, so you won't see any more scores. Time check - 8:34pm - so many whiskies, so little time! Curtains at 9pm apparently. A large drink of water and a biscuit and I soldier on with renewed focus)

Great example of Tassie single malt

Nant Port Cask: N: Intense damp hay dominates. T: Cardboard, bland, flat. Disappointing, honestly. Needs some work. I'm led to believe by the Nant rep that this was 3 to 4 years old.
(Incidentally, Jim Murray rated a certain cask strength Nant at 95.5 points in the 2012 Whisky Bible - they did not have THAT ONE on hand, unfortunately!)

Sullivan's Cove Double Cask: N: Cut dry hay, sweet malt T: Well balanced, definitely more-ish. Superb. Could drink this every day. You probably woudn't guess it was an Aussie single malt.


(There's a "Lark" here as well, but time to move on to Campbeltown and Islay..)

Caol Ila 1997 14 years, St. Etienne Rum Finish (Chieftain's Choice): Okay I didn't really intend to get onto this one yet, but Graham was pouring someone a dram of this so I thought I'd get in on the action. N: Islay, we have arrived! Big smoke, peat, well balanced though - very agreeable. Doesn't finish on an overly medicinal note like some other Islay malts - this is one classy dram. Would definitely have again. And again..


Hazelburn 8 years Sauternes Cask (55.9%): Pleasant. Young whisky noticeable. Not as sweet as I thought it would be - unlike a Bruichladdich "ACE-ing" in Sauternes, for example - perhaps spent less time finishing.
 (Good chance my senses were still knocked about by the Caol Ila too)


Longrow CV: I was really looking forward to this one. And it impressed. Snuck in with 2 minutes to spare as Graham's keen to have some dinner - pouring drams and engaging in small-talk for 3 hours might work up an appetite - props to Graham and Shane though, good show!


Well it's just after 9pm now, but luckily the other stalls are still going.. head past the Lagavulin and Oban straight to LVMH. That would be Louis-Vuitton-Moet-Hennessy in case you're wondering.

Bowl of ice water. Not in my Ardbeg, thank you!

Here we have an iconic Highland malt, the Glenmorangie, sitting side-by-side with the Lord of the Isles, Ardbeg. They have been propelled into some kind of super-stardom by the marketing folk at LVMH, but at least they have the goods to back it up.  It's too late for a dram of Glenmorangie I'm afraid (alcohol and peat have taken their toll on my senses), but I'm determined to finish my evening with a smoky Ardbeg.

And what an Ardbeg!

Ardbeg Uigeadail: Stuff of legends. My only note on this reads "WOW - HUGE delivery!". My first Uigeadail experience. Amazing. The expected intensity of peat and smoke, but held together so well as to exhibit balance and roundness. It sure lives up to the hype. This one will make its way into my cabinet as soon as I can afford it.

Next up..

Ardbeg Corryvreckan: Sure it's 9:20pm now, but we're only just starting to pack up at LVMH so I manage to sneak in a blissful dram of this stuff. I have no notes on this one, but an increased ABV (57.1%) over the Uigeadail is noticeable. It packs a punch and is so mouth-filling and warming - a beauty.

Meanwhile, shows over, with most stalls packed up, and I'm not going to bother with anything else at this point anyhow. What a night. What a finish. I'm breathing peat fire right now, whomever the lucky person/s are that I'll be seated near on the train home will know it, too!

Last drinks, everybody.. Slainte Mhor!

My only regret as I leave is that I didn't keep a better eye on the time - sure I had lots of fun and met some great whisky enthusiasts and ambassadors, but can't help but feel I could have squeezed a few more whiskies in there - I missed out on Tomatin, Aberfeldy, Ardmore, Macallan, Adelphi, Bunnahabhain and Tobermory, amongst others - but left very satifisied nonetheless.

Good show. But next year, can we have a 4 hour expo, please?


(Side note: Three hours later as I was preparing for sleep, I was still tasting Ardbeg. It just permeates into your olfactory and esophageal systems. Every breath carries the smoky remnants of the most impactful, long finishing whiskies I've had to date).